One can't talk about Parisian style without Yves Saint Laurent coming to mind. From popularizing the beatnik look in 1961 to introducing pea coats in 1962 and thigh-high boots in 1963 through his collaboration with shoe designer Roger Vivier, the French maison will go down in history as a trailblazer in the world of luxury.
Saint Laurent's innovative spirit further manifested in 1966 with the introduction of the iconic Le Smoking, the first-ever tuxedo suit for women. As the designer eloquently expressed, "Chanel freed women, and I empowered them," encapsulating his mission to not simply follow trends but to empower and liberate women through fashion.
Learn more about Yves Saint Laurent, his eponymous brand, and how it has transformed over the years, below:
Who is Yves Saint Laurent?
Born on August 1, 1936, Yves Saint Laurent grew up in a loving family in Oran, Algeria surrounded by the high society of the city. However, his early years were fraught with challenges, particularly at school.
As a shy and sensitive young boy, Yves struggled to fit in with his classmates. He was often excluded, ridiculed, and even faced physical bullying, which left a lasting impact on his self-esteem and confidence. His passion for drawing emerged early on, and he immersed himself in creating intricate illustrations, which served as a refuge from the harsh realities of his strict Catholic school environment.
His artistic pursuits also expanded beyond drawings. In 1950, Yves experienced a transformative moment when he attended a performance of Molière’s École des femmes (School for Wives) in Oran. Inspired by the show, he created his own miniature theater at home, complete with hand-dressed cardboard characters, which he used to entertain his sisters and cousins.
Some of his early forays into the fashion world included creating paper dolls out of magazine cut-outs of well-known models of the day and creating entire paper wardrobes for them. He also created costumes for a dance school. Then, at the age of 17, he participated in the Secrétariat International de la Laine’s annual competition in Paris, winning third prize in the dress category. The following year, he competed again, this time winning first and third prizes in the same category and catching the attention of Vogue Paris’ editor-in-chief, Michel de Brunhoff. This pivotal encounter led to Yves working at Christian Dior's studio in 1955, marking the beginning of his illustrious career in the fashion industry.
Yves’ tenure at Dior proved to be transformative, as he quickly rose through the ranks to become the creative director of the renowned fashion house in 1957, after Dior's death. Yves was 21 years old at the time. His innovative designs and keen eye for style revolutionized the fashion industry and laid the foundation for his eponymous brand, Yves Saint Laurent, which he founded in 1961.
Saint Laurent's Creative Directors
In 1999, following its acquisition by Gucci, YSL enlisted the talents of Tom Ford to spearhead its ready-to-wear line. Tom Ford's era was characterized by a daring infusion of sensuality and allure, epitomized by iconic campaigns like the Opium fragrance featuring Sophie Dahl. His designs, including the coveted Tribute sandal, earned accolades, securing Dress of the Year honors in 2001 and 2004.
After Tom's departure in 2004, Stefano Pilati took the creative reins, guiding YSL through a transformative period. Stefano meticulously reimagined Yves Saint Laurent's timeless silhouettes, paying homage to classics like Le Smoking and safari jackets while infusing them with some contemporary sensibility. Despite facing challenges, such as store closures and the passing of Yves Saint Laurent in 2008, Stefano's tenure was marked by notable successes and enduring contributions to the brand's legacy.
In 2012, Hedi Slimane, renowned for his groundbreaking work in menswear, assumed the role of creative director, heralding a new chapter for YSL. Hedi's tenure was defined by a bold rebranding effort, controversially transforming the label's name to "Saint Laurent", dropping the Yves. Embracing a rock'n'roll ethos, Hedi revitalized the brand's aesthetic and even restarted its haute couture line, propelling YSL into a new era of modernity and relevance.
Anthony Vaccarello, the current creative director of YSL, took the creative helm in 2016. Anthony's visionary approach embraces diversity and inclusivity, as seen in groundbreaking runway shows featuring mixed-gender collections. In response to the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, Anthony implemented innovative strategies to expand the brand's market reach, all while maintaining YSL's status as a beacon of luxury and style.
So, Is It Yves Saint Laurent or Saint Laurent Paris?
Ever since Hedi Slimane's controversial rebranding, the brand was officially renamed Saint Laurent, sans the Yves. However, many of the brands' accessories and its cosmetics line still carry the Yves Saint Laurent or YSL vertical monogram logo. Not to mention, the brand's official website is still ysl.com and their Instagram handle @ysl. So, should you call them Yves Saint Laurent, YSL, or just Saint Laurent? We say either.
Saint Laurent's Most Iconic Creations
Le Smoking
Embracing androgyny, Saint Laurent created the Le Smoking suit for his Fall/Winter 1966 collection. Mind you, this was made during a time when women were banned from wearing trousers--yes, banned. Originally designed for men to wear in smoking rooms, the structured suit retained men's silhouette codes while adapting to the female form. Despite initial criticism from couture clients and the fashion press, the suit is now universally recognized as chic and refined through a modern lens.
The Safari Jacket
Inspired by his Algerian roots and a ready-to-wear approach, Saint Laurent brought the safari jacket into high fashion. This utilitarian style, with its oversized military details and big patch pockets, was a departure from the elaborate gowns of haute couture. Despite the shift, the jacket became one of YSL's signature styles. Even today, the current creative director continues to reinterpret it in fresh and innovative silhouettes and cuts.
Mondrian Dress
YSL embraced the trend towards sack silhouettes by drawing inspiration from Dutch painter Piet Mondrian for their Fall/Winter 1965 collection. Referencing Mondrian's iconic 1929 painting "Composition II in Red, Blue, and Yellow," the structured shape of the mini dress echoed the painting's cubic elements. This design quickly became one of YSL's most recognizable creations, showcasing Saint Laurent's talent for blending culture, art, and high fashion into a unique sartorial fusion.
Local Celebrities Wearing Saint Laurent
1. Angelique Manto
2. Alexa Ilacad
3. Pia Wurtzbach
4. Heart Evangelista
5. Sarah Lahbati
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