The sartorial landscape may be a whirlwind of fleeting trends and the rise of fast fashion, but Walid Damirji stands unfazed. Since 2011, the British-Iraqi designer has steadfastly chosen to breathe new life to antique fabrics and create luxe yet sustainable pieces with his label, By Walid. Unlike those chasing after the ephemeral glow of the spotlight, Walid's creations are an ode to a bygone era, meticulously handcrafted and infused with a one-of-a-kind ethos.
Everything You Need to Know About Walid Damirji's Sustainable Label "By Walid"
At the heart of By Walid is a globetrotting narrative, where Walid acts as a fashion anthropologist and collects materials that tell tales of history and craftsmanship. From rococo silks to 1920s linens, recycled furs to Chinoiserie Spanish shawls, each treasured artifact is skillfully manipulated to blend the past and present.
By Walid is not for those seeking anonymity. Walid's signature pieces stand out and are beloved by men and women of fashion—his "movers and shakers," if you will. As a strong proponent of responsible fashion, he challenges the throwaway culture with stylish pieces that speak of craft, history, and enduring quality. In an age of disposable trends, Walid's one-of-a-kind separates age like fine wine, each telling a unique story absorbed by the fabric's rich history.
Ahead, we get to know more about the designer and how his label By Walid came to upcycle historical antique fabrics and redefine timelessness through sustainability.
READ: Fashion Designer Walid Damirji Talks About His Sustainable Brand By Walid
Can you talk briefly about your design ethos, and how that has developed or evolved since you launched By Walid in 2011?
"The textile and what I’m working on guides me! Every year we add another quality so we have 19th-century French crochet, 1920s English embroidered linen, 19th-century Qing dynasty silks, 19th-century Meiji silks, and so on. More often than not, the more distressed a textile is the happier I am to give it new life! I am always finding new ways to rewrite the narrative of the textile thus making it modern and giving it a new language."
How did you find yourself in this industry? Was it something you were always curious about doing, or were there instances in your life that led you to this path?
"I’ve always been involved in the fashion business, starting as Saturday boy at the then-famous Pelicanno boutique. [I went from being] on the shop floor to fashion buying to fashion production. I’ve had the best mentors and friends in the industry from Mrs. B [Joan Burstein] the founder of Brown, to Joseph Ettedgui of the Joseph stores, to Rifat Ozbek, and Manolo Blahnik. I’ve been blessed. This led me to eventually start designing my own line. Through By Walid, I found my voice."
Within the industry, you’re often touted as one of the figures at the forefront of the sustainability or zero-waste movements. Was this something you had been conscious of or had it come naturally to you? How did this mold your creative process?
"Yes. I’ve always used some form of recycling in all my projects over the many years. It took us forever to convince producers to use offcuts and recycled products. It has been one of my guidelines always."
You’ve said in interviews that you have always been an avid reader of history, which drew you to textile collecting. What was it that captivated you in this regard? What thoughts or feelings do these archival textiles stir?
"My knowledge of textiles is forever growing. [I'm always asking] where they are from, what they were used for, how they came to be. My imagination is also activated by the actual piece… be it a remnant or a full piece. So the thoughts and feelings are truly messages for me. Who wore this? Why? What were their reasons? When it comes to pieces that form apparel it’s who made this? Why? Etc."
What do you want wearers of your pieces to take away from owning your designs?
"I try to make timeless but trendy clothes and hope that our pieces are treasured and handed down over generations. I believe that message is in the piece before I design. All I am doing is making it wearable and relevant to today."
Can you share something you’ve learned throughout your career that informs your process or that you look to for guidance?
"I have learned to have my own voice. It took courage at first. Now that voice is my mantra."
By Walid is available at Homme et Femme located at 8Rockwell Hidalgo Drive, Rockwell Center, Makati, 1200
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