In 1927, Italy-born artist and designer Elsa Schiaparelli placed experimental fashion on the map. In contrast to her fellows of the period, the couturier toyed between the lines of art and style, collaborating with masters of the surrealist form. The result, as seen in the legacy paraded in haute couture weeks, is a distinctive view of fashion that places artistry at the forefront.
With collections that flaunt opulent silhouettes and unabashed eccentricity, the avant-garde house is wearable art at its finest. Ahead, get to know more about Elsa Schiaparelli and the brand behind its statement-making masterpieces in our comprehensive guide.
Table of Contents:
- Schiaparelli History
- Schiaparelli Creative Directors
- Iconic Schiaparelli Bags
- Filipino Celebrities Wearing Schiaparelli
The History of Schiaparelli
Years before earning her stature in surrealist and avant-garde fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli was born on September 10, 1890 in Rome, Italy, and left her birthplace for greener pastures in her early 20s. The move, which began as a childcare opportunity in London, was a trigger to a series of events that catapulted the start of her well-documented career. After her marriage to a Polish-Swiss lecturer, Elsa found her way to the United States and eventually moved to Paris, France in 1922.
Her journey to the United States in 1916 proved to be serendipitous after she met Gabrielle Picabia, the wife of Dadaist artist Francis Picabia. This friendship would soon become a catalyst for Elsa’s collaborations with artists of the Surrealist movement, and among them, an involvement with fashion designer Paul Poiret who encouraged her to pursue dressmaking.
In 1927, Elsa crafted a black-and-white hand-knit sweater with the emblematic trompe l’œil motif. The pullover featured an optical illusion effect of a bow, pierced heart, skeleton, or a sailor tattoo, which, in retrospect, shaped the experimental ethos of the Schiaparelli house. With the interest of an American buyer and it gaining international popularity, the sweater birthed the official start of the label and Elsa’s career.
From then on, the Schiaparelli house had evolved from sweaters to sporting gear, and onto the fragrance S and a full line of clothing, supported by 400 employees at Paris’ 4 rue de la Paix. Her imaginative catalog boasted collaborations with celebrated Surrealist artists including Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, Leonor Fini, and photographer Man Ray. The Schiaparelli house was also a starting point for celebrated designers, such as Pierre Cardin, who joined the studio in 1945, and Hubert de Givenchy, who was hired as the Schiaparelli boutique’s creative director in 1947 before launching his own couture house.
Among Elsa’s most distinguishable works was her use of a head-turning shade of pink aptly dubbed “Shocking Pink,” which appeared in Zsa Zsa Gabor’s costumes in the 1952 film Moulin Rouge.
Her other masterpieces include the Lobster dress, worn by socialite Wallis Simpson, the wife of former King-Emperor Edward VIII.
In 1938, Elsa released the Zodiac collection, which paved the way for modern ready-to-wear haute couture. The famed collection included a celestial embroidered cape, framed with sunrays in tinsel and gold thread.
With the war, Schiaparelli left Paris in 1941 and moved to New York, where she assisted in volunteer activities as a nurse’s aide. She returned to Paris at the end of the occupation, however, historical accounts note the emergence of new couturiers like Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, who may have eclipsed her influence at the time. In 1954, Schiaparelli declared bankruptcy and closed down the couture house. In 1973, Elsa passed away in Paris at the age of 83 years old.
Schiaparelli Creative Directors
A revival came decades later, after Tod’s Group chairman Diego Della Valle purchased the rights to the Schiaparelli brand in 2007, tapping Christian Lacroix to design a haute couture collection dedicated to Elsa Schiaparelli in 2013.
Later, Marco Zanini was hired as the brand’s creative director. During his tenure, Schiaparelli’s first haute couture runway show since 1954 took place at Paris Fashion Week in 2014.
The Italian fashion designer stepped down from the role after two couture collections and was succeeded by Bertrand Guyon as the new creative director in 2015. The label was awarded the official Haute Couture label by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation in 2017, with the signature appearing in Shocking Pink.
In April 2019, Daniel Roseberry was appointed as the maison’s latest creative director, having spent 11 years at Thom Browne. The Texas-born designer is marked as the first American to helm a French couture house.
While his collections undoubtedly echo the heritage of Elsa Schiaparelli like his predecessors, the creative director also hones a more subtle approach by capturing Elsa’s “spirit and bravery,” translating into sharp cutting techniques and out-of-this-world silhouettes.
The Most Iconic Schiaparelli Pieces Today
The contemporary house of Schiaparelli continues to embody its storied history with motifs that harken back to its most famous symbols. Below, see some of its most popular luxury bags and shoes from recent collections.
Anatomy Jewelry Bag
A highlight in Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the Anatomy Jewelry bag takes into account the house’s fascination with the human form. The bag, which is available in several iterations that range from color to size, is designed with gilded brass that makes its facial features.
Anatomy Jewelry Bag, 6900 euros (approx. P416,100), SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Bijoux Secret Bag
As the more bejeweled version of Schiaparelli’s Secret bag, the Bijoux Secret is embellished with gilded anatomical parts on its flap and bottom. Its padlock and keyhole serve as the bag’s closure as well as a clear reference to the storied symbols since 1935.
Bijoux Secret Bag, 6900 euros (approx. P416,100), SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Duffle Padlock 48H
For the more practical side of Schiaparelli, the spacious Duffle Padlock 48H shines in the maison’s catalog. The bag takes inspiration from the label’s 1946 constellation collection, all while punctuated with the quintessential lock and keyhole.
Duffle Padlock 48H, 7900 euros (approx. P476,400), SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Click here for a list of the best Schiaparelli bags to buy.
Patent Leather Keyhole Pump
In the shoe department, the brand's signature keyhole motif finds itself on a sleek pair of patent leather pumps. The four-inch heel, low-cut neckline, and pointed toe silhouette are sure to accentuate one's legs.
Patent Leather Keyhole Pump, 2100 euros (approx. P134,147.53) SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Trompe-l'oiel Toe Mules
One's eyes are immediately drawn to the shimmering gold toes on Schiaparelli's Trompe-l'oiel mules. The quirky motif is also present in heeled sandal and platform boot iterations.
Trompe-l'oiel Toe Mules, 3300 euros (approx. P210,803.26) SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Gold Toe Trainers
The maison just recently debuted its first pair of trainers. Rendered in ecru canvas, these kicks carry on the Trompe-l'oiel toe design, as well as a footprint beneath.
Gold Toe Trainers, 2300 euros (approx. P146,923.49) SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com
Filipino Celebrities Wearing Schiaparelli
Heart Evangelista
As a regular in the Schiaparelli crowd during Paris Haute Couture weeks, Filipina fashion icon Heart Evangelista is a natural when it comes to the label. Here, she sports a floor-length coat belted with a golden touch, all while toting a Bijoux Secret bag on hand.
Vicki Belo
During a Greek-themed event, celebrity doctor Vicki Belo went on the apt route by dressing in Schiaparelli. Her statement piece of the night was the Visage necklace from the haute couture house, which glistened in magnificent gold.
Marian Rivera
Primetime queen Marian Rivera is a sure Schiaparelli enthusiast, with several of her ensembles sporting select pieces from the maison. Among her favorites is the classic Anatomy Bag, which she has worn on several occasions.
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