In traditional psychology, the Rorschach inkblot test is used to determine an individual's personality and the way they think. While he didn't pursue the field full-time, fashion designer Nicolo Perez has a good grasp of the person he designs for. His eponymous label may only be a couple of years old, but he's already made quite the imprint on his patrons, who just can't get enough of his contemporary pieces.
Nicolo commemorates a milestone this year as he joins the roster of designers for the PHx Station. When lined up on a rack, you can immediately distinguish one of his originals for their liberal use of color and the interplay of different fabrics. A boxy, slightly oversized fit is also a recurring theme with his pieces. His latest collection applies new techniques to these familiar elements, resulting in experimental silhouettes and unique patterns.
Ahead, find out what inspired the young designer's collection for the PHx Station, and what it means for them to be part of this year's lineup.
Preview Creative Spotlight: Nicolo Perez on His Collection for the 2023 PHx Station
What was your creative vision for your collection for the PHx Station?
"The collection I launched is titled Another Day and is inspired by how light changes throughout the day, and the contrast between light and dark. For this collection, I expanded on some techniques we've used in the past. In terms of designing the pieces, I always had wearability in mind."
Since when did you have an interest in fashion? Can you recall how it was like launching Nicolo?
"My earliest recollection of my childhood [already involves being] interested in fashion. I remember watching Fashion TV whenever I was left alone in a room, and growing up, I spent all of my free time just sketching designs."
"Launching the brand was very intimidating and challenging since there was so much that needed to be learned. Until now I'm still learning. It was also very physically taxing since I used to sew everything by myself. I'm still very hands-on but one of my main goals is to gradually grow the team and the brand offerings."
Are there any particular influences that shaped your collection? How did they inspire your work?
"For this collection, I drew inspiration from my previous work. I wanted to test how some shapes would work with different fabric or how some techniques would look like if done in different shapes."
What are the main design elements in your collection?
"I used a lot of navy and dark blue again. I'm really just drawn to the color and I think it's a signature of the brand. I also applied the wavy shape—one we applied in the last collection in the form of a jacket—in different applications, like for a vest [or] on the hems of a shirt. We also elaborated on the use of sheer and stitch-detailing on some of the pieces."
What methods or techniques did you use to construct your pieces? How long does it take to construct a piece of yours?
"We use a zigzag stitch-detailing technique to emphasize some shapes in our pieces. In one of the shirts, which we did in 2 colors, we also used an applique technique to emphasize the contrast between a sheer and solid surface. In terms of how long it takes a piece, it's a minimum of half a day, but some pieces can take up to one and a half days to complete."
Please describe the muse you have in mind for Nicolo. What are their characteristics and how do they approach fashion?
"The brand's muse is someone who understands the value of dressing up and looking nice. They appreciate fashion and the craft [that goes behind it], but at the same time, are mindful with their approach. When I design, I honestly design for myself most of the time. Personally I like clothes that are interesting but are still very much approachable, and I think that resonates with those who wear our pieces."
What does it mean for you to be part of this year's PHx Station?
"Being part of this year's PHx lineup is such an honor for me because I get to showcase my pieces alongside designers I look up to so much, ones whose work inspire me to be better, not only in terms of designing but also in terms of running a fashion business."
"I also feel so lucky to be part of a community of creatives that are supportive of one another. What you usually hear of in the industry are people [that are] competitive in an unhealthy manner. When you're in a space that's supportive and inspiring, I think that creates more room for you to grow and flourish."
Can you share any fun fact or unknown trivia about any of your pieces?
"Our sheer inkblot shirt is actually inspired by the Rorschach inkblot test. I did this as a nod to psychology, which is what I studied before I decided to fully pursue fashion design."
Shop Nicolo's "Another Day" collection at the PHx Station pop-up in Greenbelt 5 Makati. You can also check out Nicolo's pieces online.
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