An Hermès bag, like the iconic Birkin or Kelly, is more than just a luxury accessory to many—it’s a symbol of exclusivity and craftsmanship. With sky-high price tags that can climb into millions of pesos and years-long waitlists, these bags are among the most sought-after items in the fashion world. Despite this, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès’ artistic director and sixth-generation member of the fashion house, argues that their bags aren’t “expensive” but rather “costly.” Here’s why.
Hermes Artistic Director Pierre-Alexis Dumas on “Costly” Versus “Expensive”
When discussing Hermès bags, artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas steers clear of the word “expensive.” Instead, he describes them as “costly,” emphasizing the value of their craftsmanship rather than just their price. “I've always heard that Hermès is very costly. It's not expensive. It's costly,” Pierre-Alexis explained in an interview with 60 Minutes.
To the artistic director, a “costly” item reflects the quality and time invested in its creation, while “expensive” implies something that fails to deliver on its promises.
“The cost is the actual price of making an object properly with the required level of attention so that you have an object of quality,” he said. “Expensive is a product, which is not delivering what it's supposed to deliver, but you've paid quite a large amount of money for it, and then it betrays you. That's expensive.”
This distinction is central to how Hermès views its iconic bags, such as the Birkin and Kelly. “We’re about craft, we’re not machines. And we are not compromising on the quality of the way we make the bags,” the director said.
Every Hermès bag is handcrafted by a single artisan who uses traditional methods, such as the intricate saddle stitch. The Kelly bag, for example, requires 30 individual cuts of leather and over 20 hours to complete. This labor-intensive process ensures unparalleled quality but also limits production, leaving customers waiting months or even years for their desired bag.
What Makes Hermes Bags Exclusive and High-Priced?
How Hermes Bags Are Created
Hermès bags are made with meticulous attention to detail, prioritizing quality over speed. Artisans undergo extensive training to master techniques like the saddle stitch, which is both durable and decorative. Each bag is completed by hand, without the aid of machines or shortcuts.
The Kelly bag’s handle alone requires four hours to craft, while the entire piece relies on the artisan’s skill and muscle memory rather than manuals or templates. Hermès even runs leatherwork training centers to ensure the next generation of artisans carries on these time-honored methods.
Hermes’ Exclusivity
Beyond their craftsmanship, Hermès bags are highly coveted due to their exclusivity. Unlike other luxury brands, Hermès does not rely on marketing to fuel demand. There are no ad campaigns hyping the Birkin or Kelly bags. Instead, the scarcity speaks for itself.
Potential buyers can’t simply walk into a store and purchase a Birkin. They must schedule appointments, consult with sales associates, and wait—sometimes for years. According to the artistic, Hermès doesn’t stockpile inventory or inflate demand artificially, either. As Pierre-Alexis puts it in 60 Minutes: “Whatever we have, we put on the shelf, and it goes.”
For the artistic director, Hermès bags transcend mere luxury. They represent a commitment to heritage, artistry, and enduring quality. While the price tag might seem steep, it reflects the craftsmanship, tradition, and exclusivity that define the brand.
So, are Hermès bags “expensive”? Perhaps! But in the eyes of Pierre-Alexis Dumas, they’re worth every peso—not for their price, but for their value.
Read more about the exclusivity of Hermes here.
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