The fashion industry, despite how glamorous it seems, holds some dark truths. Just a few days ago, celebrated Filipino couturier Michael Cinco made a public statement on his Instagram Stories addressing a prevalent issue within the fashion industry. He wrote, "It's quite ironic how these celebrities proudly wear these [European] designer clothes, but when it comes to Filipino designers, they suddenly want everything custom-made for them for free."
Michael’s statement drew much-needed attention to the undervaluation and underpayment of Filipino designers, who are frequently approached for fashion collaborations, known as X-deals. In these arrangements, clients offer exposure in exchange for a free custom-designed garment to be worn at public events. These arrangements offer emerging designers valuable visibility and creative opportunities, but other designers also share that the provided exposure often isn't enough to compensate for their work.
In the wake of Michael’s eye-opening statement, we sought to delve deeper into the matter by seeking out the perspectives of other local designers. Ahead, some of today's most influential local designers share their opinions on celebrities and influencers asking designers for free work in exchange for exposure.
READ: Local Fashion Designers Weigh in on the Discussion About Celebrities and Influencers Asking for Free Clothes
Prince Padilla of NOVEL
“The best way to support emerging talent, independent designers, and brands is to invest in their vision and their work. It may sound too philanthropic to apply in reality, however, it really is as simple as that.”
“I know designers, both in the Philippines and outside of the country, who get featured in magazines. Their social media engagement is high, and celebrities pull out their clothes, and they still worry about how they’re going to pay next month's rent!”
“Ideas and creative direction are not free, least of all what comes from that. Garments and processes take time and money. Unless both parties come to an agreement of mutual benefit, pay us to create.”
Cheetah Rivera
“All those years of hard work, even when I was starting, ganoon na 'yung sistema eh. Lagi kasi ang sinasabi sa amin, it's the mileage that we need. We don't need mileage. We need funding. We need to be able to do what we do best, [and] magagawa namin lahat ng mga creative ideas na 'yon, kapag may nagbabayad ng tama. It's just as simple as that.”
“It's just so important for every person to respect each other’s boundaries. When you know that this person is working hard, like kaming mga creatives, kaming mga designers, pinaghihirapan talaga namin 'yung mga damit na 'yun. Every movement that happens inside the studio has been done by artisans, mga experts in their creative fields. They have been doing this for years, then, people won't pay us? How can I do that [and keep my business afloat]? Di ba? The fact is sometimes a client would come in wearing big brands and you would see their bags na luxury items. But kapag kami na 'yung babayaran, they would ask for discounts. I don't think they [ask for discounts from] big design houses.”
“Trabaho natin ito. This is what we do for a living. So as per Michael Cinco's statement, I would like to personally thank him for speaking up on our behalf. Kasi ayaw naman natin mamatay 'yung industriya ng mga Filipino creatives, mga manglilikha na mahuhusay, at mag-fail sa negosyo just because ganun ang sistema. If we want to move forward, if we want to progress in the art field, we have to change our mindset with things.”
“Sana supportahan and respetuhin na lang ng mga tao kaming mga artists. Kapag 'yun ang presyo namin, may dahilan kung bakit 'yun ang presyo. Not because we're pricing it because we want big money. To be honest, mahihirap ang designers. We are all struggling. Sana merong pagkakatulungan. Huwag sana tayong makasarili. May mga moments, we know that there would be some stylists who would have budgets on certain projects, and then, ang dadating sa designer ni wala.”
Abraham Guardian of Ha.Mü
“It’s the local designers who have the power to decide and educate these individuals, whether what they’re doing aligns with their business beliefs or not. [At the same time], while we educate these people about their requests, we also have the ability and the option to decide if that request will be [beneficial] to our brand. Will this exposure help us bridge to the target market or the audience we’re trying to go for? So, [an x-deal] is not really a bad thing, but at the same time, if paulit-ulit na siya, it can be a bad thing.”
“Sometimes, when we get requests like this, I normally turn them down because I don’t believe in free labor. Instead, I make sure that nothing is [entirely] free, but we can meet halfway with some sort of agreement. Kunwari, we won’t provide this for free, but for a discounted price, we'll still give it to you. In exchange, we also want you to do something for us non-monetarily so that both parties really benefit from it. I think there also has to be a boundary in how the local influencers and celebrities make their requests to us local designers. Sometimes, they should also know what they can or cannot ask or at least learn how to ask properly, in such a way that it doesn’t come off as ‘Oh, I have a platform, I’m famous, so I think you should say yes to me doing it for free.’ I think it’s also about the way you ask.”
Francis Libiran
“I agree with Michael Cinco, and it is definitely an eye-opener for all of us involved in creatives. I have experienced the same treatment many times during my 25-year career and Michael Cinco’s brave statement says it all, one hundred percent.”
“All Filipino fashion designers aim to promote and uplift Filipino fashion design in the Philippines and all over the world. I pray that we all get fair treatment because that is what we truly deserve.”
Rajo Laurel
“I agree 100 percent with Mr. Cinco. Our work is our livelihood and I believe that this should be respected. Mr. Cinco has verbalized how we as Filipino designers think and feel. Intrinsically, I think about it deeply and thoroughly. If it warrants my support and attention, then I proceed. However, most of the time, I simply politely decline.”
Chris Nick
“With regards to what Michael Cinco had to say about celebrities and influencers asking for free custom pieces, I totally understand where he’s coming from and I’ve been in that situation quite a few times in which I would have to decline to dress a certain celebrity/influencer.”
"I think it also depends on the designer-and-muse relationship. As a Filipino designer myself, I love to collaborate with my muses—my angels—who I believe embody the brand and when I think it’s beneficial for both parties. However, when it comes to personal use, in which the designer believes that the brand will not benefit, I agree that it should be fully paid for. I am all for creative collaboration between artist and muse but to a certain extent—it should always benefit both parties involved.”
“I remember this story about Hayden Panettiere wanting to wear Tom Ford for a certain event, to which Tom Ford declined but Hayden Panettiere was set on wearing Tom Ford for that special occasion so she decided to buy Tom Ford off the rack. I think if someone truly respects your work, he/she would be willing to pay.”
"I’ve been known to be quite picky with who I dress and I believe every designer has the right to be—it is, after all, his/her work and effort that brings the idea to life.”
Eugene Malabad of Kill Joy Studios
“Caption credits and shoutouts won't pay the bills. I've been in this kind of situation wherein a celebrity/influencer/stylist contacted me for free clothes. I didn't mind this at first, especially back when I was still in college and was just starting. However, I try not to give in to that so much, especially when I think that the one who'll be wearing my clothes doesn't align with my personal and creative ethos.”
“Whenever my friends would ask me why I do not do custom pull-outs for celebrities/influencers often, I tell them that I would appreciate and see it as a support when these people have a true connection with the pieces I produce—when they buy my stuff and incorporate it into their everyday wardrobe and really understand the purpose of why I created my garments.”
“Yes, It's nice to see my clothes being worn by 'famous people,' but at the end of the day, this is an industry we need to keep alive, and it will not live if we only do this for clout.”
Joseph Bagasao of Bagasáo
“Just like art, fashion is inherently subjective and deeply personal—be it a celebrity or a local vendor at your community public market. The clothes we choose reflect not only our style but also our identity and how we wish to be perceived.”
“We all have a choice on what we want to wear and it’s not something one can question. However, the matter of providing our creations free of charge warrants a separate dialogue. It revolves around the principles of respect for Filipino talent and the value we give to the artistry of fashion.”
“Personally, I refrain from creating solely for the sake of publicity. Nevertheless, there have been rare instances where we have gifted our work. This gesture is not driven by a need for attention, but rather by recognizing that our work deserves the same regard given upon each meticulous piece we create.”
“I hope this can create a dialogue between influencers/celebrities and the people they collaborate with. I assume they perceive themselves as artists and can learn to give the same level of respect to others as they afford themselves.”
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