Red, pink, and rockstuds: three defining elements synonymous with the House of Valentino. First founded in 1960 by Italian fashion designer Valentino Garavani, Valentino has grown to become one of the most influential brands in fashion history, thanks in large part to their loyal following among high society.
In the comprehensive guide ahead, we take a look at Valentino Garavani’s story, the rise of his namesake brand, and the house’s most iconic contributions to high fashion.
Table of Contents:
- Who is Valentino Garavani?
- Maison Valentino's International Fame
- Maison Valentino's Defining Elements
- Most Iconic Valentino Pieces
- Celebrities Wearing Valentino Pieces
Who is Valentino Garavani?
Valentino Garavani is an Italian fashion designer born on May 11, 1932 in Voghera, Italy, a quaint town nestled between Milan and Turin. Valentino discovered his passion for fashion and art at a young age. In fact, while he was in primary school, he apprenticed under his aunt Rosa, and with another local designer named Ernestina Salvadeo.
In 1949, by the age of 17, Valentino left his hometown and ventured to Paris to study at the École des Beaux-Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. During his time there, Valentino won a fashion design competition run by the International Wool Secretariat. The prestigious award brought him wide acclaim and recognition among the Parisian fashion community, so much so that it led him to working for French couturier Jean Dessès. Notably, this accolade would later on be awarded to Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in 1953 and 1954 respectively.
By 1957, Valentino went on to work for Guy Laroche, a former colleague at Jean Dessès who was just setting up his own fashion house. After two years, Valentino returned to Rome in 1959 to work towards establishing his own eponymous fashion house. With financial help from his father, the designer launched his inaugural collection at his first atelier along Via Condotti, the Italian capital’s high fashion street. Interestingly, during this time, Hollywood actress Elizabeth Taylor was filming in town and came across his work. She then commissioned a white dress, which she wore to the after-party of Spartacus’ world premiere.
In 1960, Valentino crossed paths with Giancarlo Giammetti, then a sophomore studying architecture. Soon after, they forged a partnership, with Giancarlo assuming responsibility for the business operations of the maison.
Maison Valentino's Rise to International Fame
In 1962, Maison Valentino marked its international fashion show debut at the Pitti Palace in Florence–Italy’s premier fashion hub at the time. The inaugural collection, which showcased a stunning array of pencil-skirted ball gowns, gained critical acclaim among global buyers.
Valentino's designs soon captured the hearts of aristocrats and socialites all over the world. The designer himself attributes the “Valentino boom” to Jacqueline Kennedy, the United States' former first lady. In 1964, a year following the tragic assassination of her husband John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline purchased six black and white haute couture pieces from the house. Then, four years later in 1968, Jacqueline wore a dress from Valentino’s Sfilata Bianca collection upon her remarriage to Greek business magnate Aristotle Onassis.
Aside from Jacqueline Kennedy, his high profile clientele included the likes of Audrey Hepburn, Princess Margaret, and Queen Paola of Belgium, only to name a few.
After cementing his place as the premier designer in Italian haute couture, Valentino received the prestigious Neiman Marcus Award in 1967 for his famous "no-color collection." By focusing on beige, white, and ivory tones, this collection was a stark departure from the milieu’s trend of extravagant color palettes. In addition, it was also during this showcase that the iconic 'V' made an appearance. The VLogo soon became the maison’s signature emblem, withstanding time and even gracing their pieces until now.
Creatve Directors (2008 to present)
On September 4, 2007, Valentino Garavani announced his retirement from the fashion world. He officially left his post as creative director in January 2008, after his final haute couture show in Paris, marking the end of a remarkable 45-year career.
Valentino appointed Alessandra Facchinetti, a former creative director at Gucci, to succeed him. However, she was dismissed after less than two seasons due to a "misaligned vision with the company." Soon after, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took over as co-creative directors. Despite a brief sales decline following the controversy, the creative duo successfully guided Valentino back to its place as a leader in fashion. Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo first joined Valentino as accessory designers in 1999.
After first assuming the role in 2008, Maria Grazia announced her departure in 2016, and moved to Dior to take on the same role. From then on, Pierpaolo became the house’s sole creative director until March 2024, when he announced his own departure after working with the brand for 25 years.
A week following his resignation, Valentino named Alessandro Michele, formerly with Gucci, as the house’s new creative director from April 2024 onwards. The maximalist designer is set to debut his first collection for Valentino with the Spring/Summer 2024 line at Paris Fashion Week in September 2024.
Maison Valentino's Defining Elements
Valentino Red
Valentino Garavani introduced the Fiesta dress in his inaugural ready-to-wear collection in 1959. This strapless, mid-length garment in a vibrant red shade would soon give rise to the hallmark of the brand, known as Valentino Red—a distinct mix of 100% magenta, 100% yellow, and 10% black, according to Pantone. Subsequently, each collection included a red dress as a signature element.
Rockstuds
First launched in the Fall/Winter 2010 collection under the joint creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli, the Valentino Rockstuds are one of the brand's most memorable creations in recent history. The design pays homage to ancient Rome and the "rustic" technique found on the facades of noble palaces, and this element was featured prominently in shoes, and bags. Suffice it to say, it became the "it" shoes of the 2010s.
The Rockstuds quickly became the most profitable product in the brand’s modern history, generating over $152 million in sales between 2014 and 2019.
Pink PP
Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced a new signature color, Pink PP, during the Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection. This custom pink shade was created in collaboration with the Pantone Color Institute, marking Valentino as the first European luxury fashion house to undertake such a partnership. Fun fact: the rise of Barbiecore can be traced to this collection!
Since then, the creative director has integrated the distinct and bright shade of pink into various aspects of the brand, including store fronts, perfumes, and pieces from the collections.
Most Iconic Valentino Pieces
Rockstud Caged Pumps
The Valentino Rockstud Caged Pumps feature pyramid-shaped studs in a platinum finish, along with contrasting soft leather piping. They are designed with ankle straps and adjustable buckle closures for a stylish and secure fit.
Rockstud Caged Pump 65mm in Poudre, $1,110 (approximately P62,403.65), VALENTINO, valentino.com
Supervee Bag
A favorite among K-drama actresses, the Supervee bag features supersized gold hardware, inspired by the brand’s 1968 archive, which prominently featured a V-logo reminiscent of a superhero's emblem. Crafted in from smooth Italian leather, it includes interior slip pockets, a magnetic closure, and a thick adjustable strap that can be worn as a crossbody or shoulder bag.
Valentino Supervee leather handbag, $1,080.88 (approximately P60,766.53), VALENTINO, vestiairecollective.com*
Roman Stud Bag
The Valentino Roman Stud shoulder bag features a quilted construction adorned with the house’s signature studs. It comes with a detachable sliding chain strap and top handle, offering versatile wear options as both a handbag or as a crossbody purse.
Medium Roman Stud The Shoulder Bag in Nappa with Chain, $3,145 (approximately P176,810.33), VALENTINO, valentino.com
Tan-Go Platform Pumps
The Tan-Go patent-leather platform pump features an ankle strap with an adjustable VLogo Signature buckle fastening in gold hardware, complemented by a leather-covered platform and block heel for added style and comfort.
Valentino Garavani Tan-Go Platform Pump in Patent Leather 155mm in Pink PP, $1,435 (approximately P80,674.98) VALENTINO, valentino.com
La Fiesta Dress
Arguably one of the most iconic creations by Valentino Garavani is this La Fiesta dress: an archival piece from his debut collection in 1959. This strapless, mid-length tulle dress was famously worn by Jennifer Aniston to the premiere of Along Came Polly in 2004. Clad in the house's signature bright red hue, the cocktail dress features a tilted, draped bodice, and a geometric A-line skirt adorned with dimensional floral appliques.
Celebrities Wearing Valentino Pieces
Zendaya
Rihanna
Dua Lipa
Son Ye Jin
Lee Sung Kyung
Jinkee Pacquiao
Anne Curtis
Andrea Brillantes
Rocio Zobel
Sofia Andres
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