Ehrran Montoya has made his mark in the local fashion scene with his avant-garde aesthetic that takes cues from natural flora and other organic matter. As part of the roster of designers for Conrad Manila's wedding festival titled Inspired Beginnings, he launched one of his first-ever bridal collections—and with a star-studded cast of models at that.
Ahead, read our exclusive interview with Ehrran as he shares the inspiration and inner workings behind his newest collection.
Ehrran Montoya on His 2024 Bridal Collection
Hi, Ehrran! Congrats on the new bridal collection. Could you tell us about the concept and creative vision behind it?
"My Fall/Winter 2024 bridal collection is called Secret Garden, which is inspired by regency gardens during the Victorian era. These gardens embody the era’s adoration for classical beauty, symmetry, and harmonious landscapes."
"Drawing inspiration from the splendor of English country estates, these gardens merge structured designs with whimsical elements, crafting spaces that are both inviting and grand. Elements like ornate fountains, winding pathways, and lush floral arrangements were essential, [and hence,] are visible in the collection."
Were there any other influences that shaped this collection? How did they inspire your work?
"The recent Met Gala theme 'Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion' played a huge role in shaping the vision for the collection. The Secret Garden is sort of a portal to the collections I created in the past. It's an extension of LEPIDOPTERA (Spring/Summer 2022), Secrets of Metamorphosis (Spring/Summer 2023), Chrysalis, and Spora (Spring/Summer 2024)."
"The worlds I created only exist whenever my creative juices come to life. It is something really fascinating to experience every time I plan a collection."
What are the main design elements that defined this collection?
"The materials I used were tulle with combinations of jusi for the base. The construction of the gowns was all grand so I needed to make it as lightweight as possible. The embellishments and handmade cut-out details were already heavy and added more weight."
"We incorporated texture and volume in various ways, namely through ostrich feathers, goose tails, flower cut-outs, silk organdy ruffles, our signature structured sheer petals, sheered tulle, embossed 3D cutouts made of rubber & satin, abaca silk fabric, and pleats with several boning inserts."
How long did it take you to complete this collection?
"The entire process took us 2 months. When Fonzy Mendoza, General Manager of Conrad Manila, invited us to be part in their 8th anniversary, we started right ahead. I always start with the lineup [of models] before sketching to make sure that each piece is cohesive to the model. Direk Robby Carmona always implements [a rule] to partner the looks with the models. It took me three weeks to finalize the lineup and it ended up exactly as how I envisioned it: a Miss World for the opening and a Miss Universe for the finale, with [all of the brand's muses] in between."
"The two months given to us designers are stretched and well planned so we [were able to] beat the deadline. Most wedding gown orders take six months to one year."
Could you walk us through the production process?
"The entire process was really labor-intensive since I planned each look to appear like a 'finale' piece every time they came out on the runway. The first designs I made were too European and it took me a week to decide whether I would go for something wearable for the mass market. But my instinct really told me to create something on brand [and avant-garde]."
"Each piece has its own unique qualities that [differentiate] it from the other. Only the shades of sepia and beige made them match one another. The collection was really the result of months of sleepless nights and a love for the arts."
What makes this collection particularly unique from your past collections?
"[We usually have] a single bridal finale piece in each of my past collections, [but] these pieces we created are by far has the grandest. There are no fillers and each piece deserves its moment on the runway. For me, this is my most favorite collection aside from Chrysalis which first gave me recognition."
"This Secret Garden collection will be the bridge to our upcoming creative process for next year. Being [in the same line-up as the] best couturiers in the Philippines really challenged me to surpass the creativity from my past pieces."
What was it like to have the likes of R'bonney Gabriel, Arci Munoz, Shaina Magdayao, Megan Young, and more walk for your show? Could you share why they were chosen as the muses for this collection?
"Every Ehrran Montoya muse deserves to have the spotlight every time there's a show. With Miss Universe 2022 R'Bonney Gabriel being the new face of the brand, we really insisted on having her as the finale. Our fashion queen, no doubt, was the only one who could carry an avant-garde piece. It was an ultra-voluminous gown that featured our signature fabric manipulation."
"We purposely decided to have a minimalist yet powerful piece for a finale look. I didn't have her wear a veil as it would clash with the silhouette, so I made her wear a head piece instead, which made it an even more show-stopping moment."
"And we also have Miss World 2013 Megan Young as our muse [and opener of the show]. I assigned her a 3D beaded gown with a huge ruffled cape that she could play around with while having her moment. She was really a pro and she made the ensemble her own. She really gave a dramatic entrance. It was really one of the highlights to have both crowned queens for the opening and finale."
"Arci Muñoz has been the face of Atelier Montoya [for the longest time] and it would be such a shame to not see her be a part of this momentous milestone. It's really an honor to have her walk every time. The atelier loves her so much for all of the support."
"There's no doubt that she can pull off any style. Every time she wears my work, that's the only time she goes on 'pageant mode,' which [is an] alter ego of hers she loves to bring out. So, I made her wear a body-hugging serpentine gown with volume cascading down the bottom."
"Seeing Shaina Magdayao walk for me for the first time gave me so much chills as she was really perfect to open the celebrity segment. She was indeed immaculate, and it was like having a real bride walk down the aisle."
"Shaina is very easy to dress up. She can carry all types of necklines, but since I know her very well, I know that she loves a deep neckline and powerful shoulder pads. She had a voluminous cascading mullet ball gown perfect for a modern bride."
"Aside from these celebrities, we also have a crowned queen who is very loyal to us, Miss Globe 2021 Maureen Montagne, who's always been a part of my past shows. The same goes for Mr. Supranational Philippines 2023 Johannes Rissler and Ms. Universe Philippines 2023 finalist CJ Opiaza."
"To see them all walk for me gave me goosebumps as it [transported me to the] backstage. I remembered each moment when I was just starting as a designer."
What message do you wish to convey through this collection?
"The pieces are in relatively unusual silhouettes that are not common in bridal collections. I really believe that there are a lot of brides out there who can't see themselves in the usual bridal silhouettes, so if they're seeking something they can relate to, I am here for them."
"[With this collection], I wanted to prove that you can be authentic without having limits. Our imagination is a preview of life's coming attractions, so always do what you want, follow your instinct, and shine to the best of your ability."
This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.
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