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BFFD 2023: These Brilliant Fashion Designers Are Redefining the Filipino Style and Identity
Meet the inaugural batch of Preview's Best Filipino Fashion Designers.
by Nicole Cruz
Published Sep 8, 2023
Beyond the garments they stitch, these designers are giving Filipino fashion a more contemporary and all-encompassing meaning.
Since 1995, Preview has been at the forefront of championing Filipino fashion and the creatives who bring it to life. Whether they’re at the helm of well-established houses or of emerging labels, these designers are the visionaries who shape the way we view clothing.
This 2023, we’re giving special recognition to these talented designers whose ideas have manifested into invaluable contributions to the industry. What these five proudly local fashion brands offer isn’t just the sheer genius of their garments, but rather, their fresh perspectives that influence and hone how Filipinos dress.
Ahead, we proudly present the inaugural batch of Preview’s Best Filipino Fashion Designers.
The Artist: RJ Santos of Randolf
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Established in 2013, Randolf by RJ Santos started off as a streetwear label known for its tongue-in-cheek designs. Illustrations referencing pop culture would be plastered on gauzy fabrics, almost becoming like internet memes one can wear in real life.
Fast forward to today, RJ continues his humorous riff on culture through a line of ready-to-wear pieces, which star his distinct custom-made Barong Tagalog tops. The traditional Filipino menswear is refreshed with intricate embroidery akin to hand-drawn illustrations. Motifs range from tropical flora to outer space encounters, with each one bringing color and personality to the piña jusi canvas.
The idea to revamp the barong came to RJ in 2019. The pandemic further sharpened his focus on it, given the dimness of ready-to-wear at that time. Most of his clients are grooms and couples in search of something “exciting.”
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Gabbie Abesamis wears the RANDOLF Roseheart Suit
“At first, medyo reserved sila. They sometimes think they can’t carry a certain design,” says RJ. “Pero, syempre, sinasabi ko na ‘I'm not gonna design something that will make you feel awkward or uncomfortable because ultimately, my goal is to make you feel good about yourself with a barong.’” This has become the nucleus of the Randolf brand, something he had never expected but fully embraces as it serves as a new canvas to paint on. His background in Fine Arts shines through this way. “I like the idea of embroidery, [it’s like] you’re tattooing on the fabric. The brand is heavily inspired by music, but the prints I develop are also inspired by traditional tattoos.”
RJ shares that his best moments as a designer are whenever clients rave to him about their experience wearing his clothes. In a way, he utilizes the humble Barong Tagalog as a way to allow people to recognize and express their own uniqueness. Randolf has always been about happiness and confidence, he professes.
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The Dreamers: Abraham Guardian and Mamuro Oki of HA.MU
Abraham and Mamu first joined forces for their graduation fashion show at the College of St. Benilde in 2017. The two had similar approaches to design that their peers and mentors felt could complement each other to create a singular brand. “We were just fresh,” says Abraham, or “Ham” for short. What made HA.MU stand out was its unabashed maximalism and well-crafted construction that combined pleats, prints, and a pastiche of fabrics. They credit their takeoff to Andre Chang, a former Fashion Editor of Preview, who had discovered their brainchild even before their thesis presentation.
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Their brand of quirky avant-garde led to more opportunities, from fashion shows to collaborations, but nothing prepared them for the shock of getting invited to Palais de Tokyo. Helmed by curators from Paris, the international exhibit showcased designers from a diverse set of countries to highlight their talent and grit. Unlike the rest of the roster they were in, Ham and Mamu were approached, completely bypassing the rigorous audition process.
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Mika Reins wears the HA.MU Lumpy Space Princess Dress
The two always ascribe their whimsical designs to their child-like imagination. Crowns, doodles, flowers, and ruffles abound as if floating from the pages of a storybook. However, the playfulness of their ethos was tested during the pandemic when there wasn’t any room to play. When it came down to it, HA.MU was a business that needed some rethinking. With the help of a mentor, they were able to hit a sweet spot between a fun fashion identity and a more evident level of wearability.
A look at their Instagram will show that more and more individuals are unleashing their quirky side through HA.MU. “Parang, we give off the vibe that we are a safe space,” Ham says. “That's what I noticed. Kasi, when we meet random people who would buy, kahit medyo shy sila, they would say na they feel a sense of comfortability with us.” These instances prove that HA.MU has become some sort of safe space for its patrons. Over the years, the duo has proved that there’s no shame in getting a little zany with one’s clothes.
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The Veteran: Cheetah Rivera
A legend in her own right, Cheetah Rivera just hit the 10-year mark in the industry. When one fully grasps what that entails, a decade in fashion is a Herculean feat. It all started with her podium finish on the third season of Project Runway Philippines. Back then, she was known for dressing models with antlers covered in gold fringe maillots or column dresses in swaths of faux fur.
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Prior to her big break, she faced financial challenges while studying fashion design. "I really didn't have money when I started out. Zero. So, I don't even know how I'm here [today],” she openly expresses. Cheetah credits everything to hard work and perseverance, which may sound trite at first, but it’s the thread that truly keeps her going. Becoming a fashion designer was a childhood dream she just wasn’t going to give up on.
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Shermaine De Ramos wears CHEETAH RIVERA Holiday 2022
This quiet hustle is evident in the evolution of her designs, a hallmark of her deep and earnest desire to translate the inner machinations of her mind. Through experimentation, Cheetah’s androgynous aesthetic morphed into soft femininity with a sharp focus on innovation. 2023 is perhaps Cheetah’s biggest year yet. In January, Heart Evangelista donned a slew of her creations to Paris Fashion Week, with the most memorable one being an exquisite golden terno number. Exploring traditional attire was fueled by her experience of being a finalist at TernoCon, a country-wide competition that seeks to reignite creativity with our heritage pieces.
Many recognizable faces were seen donning Cheetah Rivera this year, from Dolly de Leon and Kyline Alcantara, to Angelique Manto and Verniece Enciso. At this point of its evolution, the Cheetah Rivera brand could best be described as fanciful elegance. But perhaps what draws people to the designer’s pieces for all these years is her genuine spirit. "Fashion design is a question of intent. And ako, I'm doing it because aside from making art itself, I want to make a woman feel beautiful.”
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The Sophisticate: Chris Nick Delos Reyes
Chris Nick Delos Reyes and his eponymous label nail glamor down to a tee. Coming from a business bachelor’s program, Chris pandered to his creative call and took up fashion design at SoFA Design Institute. He never had plans of becoming a full-on designer, but an opportunity to show at the Panasonic Manila Fashion Fest proved his potential. Sleek and sensual, his Studio 54-inspired presentation was the first step into the creation and curation of the Chris Nick brand.
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Soon after, Catriona Gray was spotted sporting an ivory tuxedo by Chris, officially putting him on the map of designers to watch. A sartorial windfall ensued as he nabbed 11 magazine covers within his first six months alone. Powering through the pandemic, Chris went on to design multiple collections per year, which further solidified his presence.
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Raejell Roxas wears CHRIS NICK S/S 2023
His ethos is classic, minimalist, and sexy, with evident influences from Gucci’s Tom Ford era. Dive into his collections and you’ll find tubular gowns, clean cuts, sharp tailoring, bows, sequins, and velvet, all rendered in black or white. The enduring appeal of a Chris Nick look has garnered a huge following of socialites and celebrities, with a little collective fondly called the “Chris Nick Angels” even being formed.
The demand has been “crazy,” describes Chris’ teammate Steph, who helps him manage client relations. “I wanted to create this world. My own type of curated world. I just didn't know that people would actually want to be part of it,” he shares.
The Disruptor: Prince Padilla of Novel
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Born here in the Philippines, Prince Padilla came of age in England. Upon coming home, he launched Novel, his very own clothing label, last December 2022. He set his sights on a master’s degree after graduating from the Manchester School of Art, but the pandemic threw a wrench in his plans. Setting foot back in Manila after quite some time away sparked a desire to contribute to the local creative community.
“If you compare it with the other three fashion capitals, London is where the crazy kids are,” says the 27-year-old. Aside from his background in fine arts and his first bachelor’s degree, it’s the liberating landscape of London that informed his design approach. His experiences pushed him to adopt a highly reactive creative process that required being in tune with his inner self. “I'm quite instinctive, and I'm quite reactive to the things I see. I used to intellectualize a lot of my process, but now I'm able to trust myself more, and just react organically,” he shares.
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Kira Manansala wears the NOVEL Deconstructed T-Shirt Dress
His designs, all of which he sews himself, possess an unhinged rawness that’s thought-provoking in the best sense. Key components include deconstructed dresses, multiple knots and ties, and surreal detailing that adds a fantastical touch. Such elements often impart dualities, which are as multi-faceted as the wearer in Prince’s mind: “I think for me generally that's what a modern woman is. It's a strong but a soft woman.”
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Aside from that, Novel also represents the industry’s aspiration to become more sustainable. His works are 90% deadstock fabric sourced locally, mainly from Taytay, where they’ve developed close relationships with the community. This reflects Prince’s intentional approach to his craft. And in a society accustomed to the quick and easy, a dogma like that, in the truest sense of the word, is novel.
Produced by The Preview Team
Photographer: Renzo Navarro
Creative Director: Bacs Arcebal
Editor-in-Chief: Marj Ramos-Clemente
Production: Em Enriquez and Reg Rodriguez
Models: Gabbie Abesamis, Mika Reins, Shermaine De Ramos, Raejell Roxas, and Kira Manansala of the Professional Models Association of the Philippines
Makeup: Gery Penaso, Jay Salcedo, and Vince Leendon of MAC Cosmetics Philippines
Hairstyling: Lourd Ramos, Melvin Deinla, Nora Wikas, John Pantorilla, and Kenneth Jayan of LRA Salon
Story: Nicole Cruz
Videos: Jana Jodloman
Social Media: Jamie Lou Briones
Shoot Location: One Hectare Creative Grounds
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Special thanks to the Professional Models Association of the Philippines
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