Over the last few years, contemporary Filipino designers have been giving their own spin on the barong: a long-sleeved, traditional menswear shirt typically weaved from piña fibers. Since time immemorial, the men's formalwear staple has stood as a sartorial symbol of Filipino culture, alongside its feminine counterpart, the baro't saya.
Traditionally, the barong is characterized by its sheer finish, straight-cut silhouette, cuffed long sleeves, and subtle embroidery on the chest area. Now, centuries after its inception during the Spanish colonial era, today's designers are infusing the barong with more youthful and playful elements. Whether incorporating bold, hand-stitched patterns or exaggerated ruffled details, it's clear that the barong is tapping into modern style sensibilities.
Joining the growing number of local designers reimagining the barong is Emerie Studios, a local Filipino brand that specializes in traditional Filipino attire. Helmed by Em Adizas and Bengt Enrique, the up-and-coming brand's Catalino Barong Jacket has sparked quite the conversation on Reddit, an online social forum.
LOOK: The Viral "Catalino Barong Jacket" by Filipino Brand Emerie Studios
According to the brand's official Instagram page, the Catalino Barong Jacket is made of handwoven piña and silk from Aklan. Fashioned after the bomber jacket, a streetwear staple, this piece features a ribbed nylon lining and a leather zip tab detail.
According to Em and Bengt, the Catalino Barong Jackets actually began development over a year ago. Over the last few years, the brand has been specializing in adding a touch of contemporary flair to traditional Filipino attire. Now, with this take on the modern barong, Emerie Studios advances this design ethos by blending tradition with today's fashion sensibilities. "With the Catalino Barong Jackets, we want to convey that tradition and modernity can coexist harmoniously. Our goal is to show that the barong, traditionally reserved for formal occasions, can be part of everyday style," the designers shared in an exclusive interview with Preview.
Em and Bengt are also steadfast in their advocacy of highlighting piña as a versatile and contemporary textile. When asked about the concept and inspirations behind the piece, the duo expressed: "Our goal is to provide our customers with innovative ways to wear and appreciate piña, making this traditional fabric relevant and stylish in the modern world."
In addition, the duo also shared their hopes of making piña weaving a sustainable source of income for local artisans. "By providing piña weavers with a steady stream of orders, we support the sustainability and development of their craft, ensuring that these valuable skills can be passed down to future generations. This not only helps preserve an important aspect of our cultural heritage but also empowers the artisans who dedicate their lives to this beautiful craft," they said.
Netizens React to Emerie Studios' "Catalino Barong Jacket"
The r/Philippines thread has seen a lively debate over the Catalino Barong Jacket. "Saw this piña barong jacket by Emerie Studios. Is this still considered [a] barong?" asked the original poster, alongside a screenshot from the brand’s Instagram post. The post elicited numerous comments, with users sharing their perspectives on the piece.
Some users believe that it's still considered a barong. One of the top comments expounded on this claim: "I'd personally call it a barong and would wear one myself. I understand why people would be conservative about these [kinds] of stuff but I think 'modernizing' traditional attire is a good way to ensure that it isn't forgotten," they wrote.
Conversely, others argue that the design does not merit the barong label, suggesting that "barong-inspired" is a more accurate term. Despite the use of piña fabric, they feel the jacket's shape deviates too much from the customary silhouette. "Personally, I don't think that can be considered as barong. While it is made from the same materials used for making barongs, it just doesn't count as [a] 'barong' (for me)," one user remarked.
SHOP: The "Catalino Barong Jacket" from Emerie Studios
The Catalino Barong Jacket comes in a natural white Piña Shifu and hand-dyed black variation, from sizes small to extra large. Sizes beyond this range can be custom-made to order.
According to designers Em and Bengt, interested buyers can send the brand a message through their official Instagram page, @emeriestudios, as they work on setting up their brand's official website.
Catalino Barong Jacket - natural Piña Shifu, P28,500, EMERIE STUDIOS, Instagram/emeriestudios
Catalino Barong Jacket - hand-dyed black, P29,500, EMERIE STUDIOS, Instagram/emeriestudios
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