After taking a five-year hiatus from runway shows, Anthony Ramirez has finally made his much-awaited comeback. Earlier this month, the self-taught Filipino designer presented his Spring-Summer 2024 collection entitled Symphony of Feelings in his quaint atelier at the heart of Quezon City.
To spotlight 30 awe-inspiring designs exemplifying feminine fluidity and profound memories, Anthony worked with his dream team of creative minds, including fashion director Jackie Aquino, celebrity stylist Perry Tabora, makeup artists Jelly Eugenio, Anthea Bueno, and Mark Qua, and hairstylists Paul Nebres and Renz Pangilinan with Jay Aquino and Valerie Corpuz.
All in all, the '90s-inspired show was a testament to Anthony's passion for sartorial self-expression and his 15 years of hard work in the fashion industry. Learn more about the collection in Anthony's exclusive interview with Preview ahead.
Preview Creative Spotlight: Anthony Ramirez on His Spring/Summer 2024 Collection
Can you give us an overview of the concept or theme behind your collection?
"First, the atelier. So, the atelier is from the 1960s and it’s the first house at Horseshoe Village. The runway show’s idea is from the movie Meet Joe Black. Kaya ganun yung garden and yung arc, may arc kasi doon sa first scene ng Meet Joe Black because they're preparing for the party."
"Before the show, ang pina-serve ko lang na drink is Moët o champagne. For me, '90s champagne is the perfect idea of alcohol, of elegance and class. For the models naman, I conceptualized supermodels and New York socialites. Imagine having a party in the '90s with New York socialites. ‘Yun ‘yung idea ko. That's also why I only gave out exclusive invites to my friends."
How does this collection reflect your creative vision or design ethos?
"It's a comeback show. Parang four to five years din ako nagpahinga sa fashion in terms of shows. So this time, I wanted to create something new. Gusto ko ng bagong brand and aesthetic rebranding.
"At the same time, nandoon pa rin ‘yung core of my style from 15 years ago. ‘90s was the era na nag-start ‘yung momentum ko to become a fashion designer and lahat ng dreams ko to become a fashion designer. So influence ko is mostly ‘90s talaga and bumalik na ako doon sa roots ko and mga idea ko noong bata pa ako. And then I checked the international fashion houses to identify ano talagang trends ngayon. That’s how I came up with those looks."
"This show also highlights how I controlled my aesthetic. Controlling everything about the show, from doing the designs, to fabrication, to the looks, to the styling. I controlled everything because I want my work to be more polished and elegant."
Are there any particular influences that shaped your collection? How did they inspire your work?
"Every time I create a collection, it's always based on my emotions. What I feel that day, what I feel that moment. Then to follow na ‘yung technique. Another constant influence is the character of people. Every time I create a collection, I imagine someone—but now, I particularly imagine how New York socialites dressed in the ‘90s. "
What are the main design elements in your collection? Are there any specific fabrics, materials, motifs, silhouettes, or colors that defined your collection?
"I used French cashmere for some of the clothes, plus taffeta and pure satin. There was only one beaded piece—the white one—kasi ‘yun 'yung interpretation ko ng wedding gown. But for most of the collection, hindi ako gumamit ng beads or Swarovski crystals because I want to use real diamonds. That's why for the first and second to the last looks, I offered a new idea on how to wear diamonds."
"As for the collaboration with Viera Jewelry, I particularly made a diamond-encrusted bra to showcase the idea that I only use diamonds. Parang no more drama needed—just the diamonds! It helps me to elevate the elegance of the dresses overall."
What methods or crafting techniques did you use to construct your pieces? How long did it take to complete this collection?
"In this collection, it's more on draping, which is ‘yung aesthetic ko naman talaga. Drapings and cutouts! This time, though, I didn’t want my clothes to look heavy and well-fitted, ‘yung sobrang sikip on the body. I want the fabric to flow or wrap around lang—magaan tingnan. That’s the idea because fashion trends now are more relaxed and sophisticated. You will see that they're into feeling empowered and sexy pa rin, but at the same time, you can feel the comfort of wearing Anthony Ramirez."
"It took just two months, to be honest, to create the entire collection. But the process of creating and conceptualizing started earlier this year when I got the shop."
What specific message do you wish to convey through this collection? How did you want the audience to feel after watching the show?
"Well, the collection is called A Symphony of Feelings, meaning my feelings throughout my 15 years in the fashion industry. When I started in the industry, it's not the way I imagined, from the business side to the people in it. It’s easy to insecure because I didn’t graduate from a fashion school back then and I'm not a product of designing competitions. My only platform was joining Philippine Fashion Week and then from there, dire-deretso na. So it’s not just about me, it’s more about personal feelings."
"So when you first see Ria Bolivar, that's the interpretation of me back then 15 years ago, growing up in the province then going to Manila to become a designer. From Ria to the next five looks, kung mapapansin niyo, they’re so in line with the Anthony Ramirez aesthetic. When you see those looks, alam mong they’re Anthony."
"Then when it comes to Look 7, the guy in all-white, that's the interpretation of me falling in love within that year. That’s why from that guy to the tenth look, medyo sweet naman. Doon ako challenged—to create a look that's sweet but still has the Anthony Ramirez touch."
"When it comes to the eleventh look, from Jessica Young up to Ornusa Cadness, that's the real Anthony Ramirez. So all of that, if you'll notice, is super sexy. That’s why Ornusa is my idea of a wild girl back then, in my early days in the fashion industry. She's my dream model for the Anthony Ramirez look, and now I finally achieved it after 15 years."
"After Ornusa, the story goes back to what Anthony Ramirez can cater now. That's our new look for the atelier and for the clientele."
Can you share any fun fact or unknown trivia about any of your pieces?
"While doing the collections, my stylist Perry Tabora was abroad for Paris Fashion Week. Some time in the middle, I remember nagigising ako three nights consecutively kasi bothered ako. I asked Perry, ‘Is this collection on the right track? Tama ba ‘yung looks ko? It's very now ba?’ And then lagi niya sinasabi sa’kin, yes, wala kang problema kasi na sa tamang direction. So I felt relaxed noong dumating na siya."
"Noong nabuo na namin ‘yung styling together with Mark to test the makeup and everything, doon ko lang na-realize I'm on the right track and happy ako sa collection ko. Na-present ko siya and at the same time na-express ko talaga."
"The challenging part about becoming a designer here in Manila is the creative power you have, from hair to makeup and everything else. Now medyo napa-practice na ‘yun ng mga designers. Back then, wala kaming power masyado to do that. Now, itong show, 100% na-curate ko siya. As in everything, from the house to the backstage. Ito ‘yung dream show ko. I also thank my team for the support, iba talaga ‘yung solid na ginawa nila sa’kin."
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