In the Philippine archipelago, the fine art of jewelry making finds its beginnings before colonialism took root. Once, these islands were perceived as a Promised Land of mineral wealth, with gold as a scintillating pull for traders across the region, trickling down to those of the West.
After millennia, the rich heritage of Philippine jewelry is dusted off and polished even further by the designers and goldsmiths who champion it. Among them is Filipino jewelry designer Adam Pereyra, who teamed with master artisan Ely Arcilla Jr.—under the moniker “Oslog”—for pieces that breathe a contemporary character to an age-old tradition.
During an artisan-led event in early June, the designer was acquainted with the jewelry maker, as he heard of his three-decade journey in the field. Aside from being the son of the dubbed “Manlilikha ng Bayan sa Bicol,” Oslob was a known skilled hand of his own, crafting one-inch gold baskets to intricate Alfajor necklaces that are smaller than the size of a fingernail.
But despite several collaborations with designers over the course of his 30-year career, Oslog as an artist was left in the shadows for most of it. After meeting with his family, Adam proposed ideas for a potential project, which included exhibitions and books.
“I began helping them in their small workshop in Pasig. Every weekend, I would travel to help stretch metal sheets. It was my first assignment,” Adam recalled to Preview. “It took months before I was able to hold the torch. Till then, I was feeding the metal into the laminator down to his exact measurements. He would always check with his caliper afterward. I would hammer, coil, anneal, and rearrange the metal pieces in their workshop every weekend.”
After five months, the result was an entire complete collection. “We knew that this partnership will unlock art in jewelry like never before, and in this, we vowed that we will help each other make this a reality,” Adam said. “We hope to rebuild the jewelry identity of Filipinos. It’s something we Filipinos have always been good at—as seen in our ancestral gold collection in Ayala Museum or the Bangko Sentral. It's rooted in our identity.”
Adam and Oslog’s collaboration made its first foray into the public at the recently held PHx Station, with the meticulously crafted pieces spotlit among a rich roster of Filipino-helmed creations. In this exclusive interview, Adam discusses the process that went behind the collection and the vibrant heritage of Philippine jewelry.
Preview Creative Spotlight: Adam Pereyra on His Jewelry Collection for the 2023 PHx Station
Can you give us an overview of the concept or theme behind your pieces? What was your creative vision and how is it connected to your design ethos?
“Thousands of years ago, exquisite jewels were crafted in the archipelago. Finely woven metal threads were crafted by hand, while thin plates were adorned with hundreds of granulations. Precise shapes with exact symmetry were forged and assembled during ancient times—all by Filipino hands.
Yet, modern Filipinos can only admire these tangible treasures behind museum glass walls. This raises the question: What is next for Philippine jewelry? With us, a master artisan and designer joined hand-in-hand and hoped to answer this question.”
Are there any particular influences that shaped your creations? How did they inspire your work?
“I've been delving carefully into our oral traditions and how our stories can be perceived today.
I started with a Tagalog story of Apolaki, a sun god and patron of warriors. Some believe this story, some don’t, yet his bright aura and power reflect in several motifs across the collection, such as the Sinag Hoop Earrings, Giginto pyrite bangle, and the Sun Medallion, to name a few.”
What are the main design elements in your pieces? Are there any specific fabrics, materials, motifs, silhouettes, or colors that define your collection?
“Master artisan Oslog uses ancient techniques like manual granulation, wire twisting, coiling, hand setting, and even hand carving in our pieces. We aim to present Philippine jewelry enriched with forgotten techniques.
A good example of this is the Sun Chief Medallion—an 18K gold reproduction piece featuring a pattern found on large quatrefoil earrings within the BSP Collection. Ten intricate layers surround an unheated Sri Lankan yellow sapphire. Master artisan Oslog hand stamps the outer circle with precision—a mistake in stamping would ruin the circle.”
What methods or crafting techniques did you use to construct your pieces? How long did it take to complete your creations?
“Every single piece begins with melting gold and mixing alloys for its specific requirements. Each ingot is hand-formed, pulled, and coiled to create metal wires. These wires are then transformed into spherules or springs, and each piece is painstakingly assembled by hand.
Some pieces are even assembled using a microscope, with no shortcuts taken for any piece. Some pieces take one to six months, depending on the design's complexity.”
What specific message do you wish to convey through your pieces? How did you want the audience to feel?
“I believe it’s destiny for an artisan and a designer to share the same ideas and vision from the ground up. We both aspire for Filipino craftsmanship in jewelry to regain recognition on the world stage. Our ancestors' achievements in the past without modern technology were insurmountable, and with this, we aim to uncover the future of Philippine jewelry.”
Can you share any fun fact or unknown trivia about any of your pieces?
“Did you know that our Ala-ala Necklace takes one and a half months to hand-weave? Each strand is coiled and interlocked with others to form a complex yet simplistic pattern.
A similar chain is only found in museums, and we're innovating the necklace with a cleverly concealed screw lock so you can integrate any existing pendant you wish.”
What does it mean for you to be part of this year's PHx Station?
“We debuted at PHx Station, which was incredibly meaningful for Sir Ely and me. The PHx team invited us to join, and I immediately said yes due to the organization's solid reputation.
The first and second collections we presented sold out in a few weeks, and I'm truly looking forward to our next chapter of innovation and design.”
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