Apo Whang-Od received the Presidential Medal of Merit on February 14 for raising “international awareness of our country’s rich cultural heritage,” just three days before she turns 107 years old.
The Presidential Medal of Merit is an honor bestowed to individuals who have made exceptional contributions to the country. During the ceremony, President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr. noted that Whang-Od is "a pioneer in shattering gender stereotypes, venturing into tattooing when it was just a man’s exclusive preserve."
Whang-Od is a legendary Filipina artist from the Kalinga province who gained international recognition for her traditional hand-tap method of tattooing known as “pagbabatok." She’s been practicing the craft since she was 15 years old. In 2018, she was awarded the Dangal ng Haraya award by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA).
All that said, one might wonder if Whang-Od's still open to tattooing the public given her international fame. The answer to that is a resounding yes. You’ll just need to know how to find her!
Everything you need to know about getting a tribal tattoo from Apo Whang-Od
Getting tattooed from Whang-Od is one of the most unique cultural experiences in the Philippines, so it’s no surprise why people from all over the world would brave the Kalinga mountains to reach her in Buscalan village.
Do note that receiving a tattoo from Whang-Od is a highly sought-after experience, which means you might have to wait since it is given on a first-come, first-served basis. Staying in Buscalan village for at least two to three nights, as well as visiting on a weekday, can increase your chances of getting tattooed.
How to get to Apo Whang-Od in Kalinga province
It can be challenging to find her in Kalinga. The trip from Manila to Buscalan can stretch between 12 to 14 hours. Options include taking a bus ride on Victory Liner in Manila or on Coda Lines in Cubao to Bontoc for 10 hours, then ride a combination of jeepney and motorcycle rides to reach the village.
Looking to save time? You can also fly in to Northern Luzon for a faster journey. The nearest major airport is Tuguegarao International Airport. From there, you can take a bus or van to Bontoc and then transfer to a motorcycle to reach Buscalan.
Guides are necessary for navigating the village and securing an appointment for a tattoo. They are available at the jump-off point at Buscalan, with a P1,000 fee per day for up to five people (more or less). There are also several Facebook groups like Tattooed by Apo Whang-Od that inform visitors on the availability of homestays, guides, and Whang-Od’s availability for the week.
Prepare for the hour-long trek by bringing light clothing, rain gear, hiking shoes, and cash, as there are no ATMs in Buscalan. Also, be ready for a digital detox since connectivity is close to non-existent.
The price and meaning of Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo
Tattoos are an integral part of Kalinga culture as well as among indigineous peoples across the Philippines. You can often tell a member of this group from faraway thanks to their typically heavily designed bodies. These markings are symbols of strength for the men—the Kalinga are known for being headhunters, after all, and these tattoos were once only given after great feats of violence, considered heroic—and were used to add to the beauty of women, too. Having a mambabatok tattoo you was historically an earned feat, but as times have changed, the Kalinga have opened up this artform to others.
The traditional Kalinga tattoo is applied using a hand-tapping method that involves a thorn from a pomelo plant, a bamboo stick, and ink made from a mixture of coal and water. Expect this technique to be more painful than a modern tattoo since the manual method will involve a repetitive tapping action with a thorn to embed the ink in the skin.
Prices for batok tattoos vary depending on size and intricacy. Small designs start at P300, while a full sleeve can go up to P50,000. As for Whang-Od, she is now focusing on smaller designs due to the physical demands of the process. You’ll also need to buy the “pambatok” for P200 no matter the design.
You'll be presented with a book of traditional designs to choose from. Each design has its own significance, so consider these meanings carefully. Whang-Od specializes in her signature three dots for P300, but you can also receive tattoos from her proteges, Grace and Elyang, who can do it just as well.
Together, the three of them represent Whang-Od's signature tattoo, marking a legacy of the batok tradition that continues through generations.
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